Taste of Vesteralen, Part One, Harstad Church

 November 13, 2022

Sunday morning, on what would have been my mother's birthday, we tied off in the dim morning light of Harstad, on the westerly edge of the archipelago of Vesteralen.  Here the MS Richard With had but a brief stop, but I would be disembarking.  Since this line of the Hurtigruten is actually a working ferry for people and goods, their schedule is set by that need.  So sometimes if a shore excursion requires more time, it includes a bus ride that follows the ship on land, and catches up with the ship at a port further down the route. 

The Vesteralen Islands, nearly halfway down the western coast of Norway, sit just above the famous Lofoten Islands.  Many of the islands are connected by bridges, but as we rode towards our port of embarkation, we would also need one ferry ride.  

Our itinerary was to have included a stop at Trondenes Church, the northernmost surviving stone church in the world.  Construction of this simple red-roofed building began in 1250, but took many years to complete.  Now, however, it was undergoing some restoration, so we were taken to the nearby church in Harstad for a short service.  Situated on a rise, it has a sweeping view to the sea.

Harstad Church was constructed in 1958 in the more modern style, including a parish hall, fellowship hall, narthex, bathrooms, and a kitchen, rather than a single room as with traditional churches of bygone eras.

Outside the church stands a statue of Hans Egede (1686 - 1758), born in Harstad and a Lutheran missionary to Greenland.

After a very brief message, we joined in singing a hymn that had been printed in seven languages.  The hymn and service was especially meaningful to me as my mother loved both attending church, and singing hymns.  She studied many of the hymns and their origins, and published a book on hymnology.

The upper portion of the mural behind the altar seems to be a depiction of Christ after His resurrection.  The lower portion is of Hans Egede and his outreach to the Inuit people of Greenland.

In the triangular space above the entrance door was this beautiful organ.

On a table in the narthex was a model of the church, constructed with corrugated plastic sheets.

Hammerfest, Another Northernmost City

 November 12, 2022

Just before lunchtime on Saturday, we would be docking in Hammerfest for a less than two hour stopover.  Unfortunately, the usual dock was under repair, so we had to tie up on the opposite side of the harbor.  It would be possible to simply walk around a while near our docking, but if we wanted to actually explore the town, then we were given the opportunity to reserve a seat on a chartered shuttle bus for about $10.  I did so, and was able to be on the first of two rides.  It was a short ride, but too long to walk in the time we had available.  

Both Hammerfest and Honningsvag seem to claim the title of "northernmost town in Norway", and though the nuances of this has been explained several times, I'm still unclear on the reasoning.  Additionally, though a polar bear has never been seen roaming in or near Hammerfest, they have latched onto it as their city mascot.  In fact, there is even a Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society, as well as a polar bear museum.  

I did not attempt to visit the polar bear museum, but rather struck out towards the church, keeping careful watch for icy patches.  Shortly off the shuttle, I'd watched a woman about my age suddenly flip onto her back as she attempted to walk across the street.  Between her husband and I, we managed to get her back upright, sore, but not injured.  Later I would see two more women go down, and I nearly fell several times myself.  

On my walk through the slick, rainy streets I passed this interesting statue.

The A-frame church in Hammerfest is relatively new, being constructed of cast-in-place concrete in 1961.  Its design is suggestive of stock fish drying racks, which are so prevalent along the coast of Norway.  The previous church, located at a nearby location, was burned by the Germans at the end of WWII.  The triangular shape of the steeple is to represent the Trinity.

The organ was a fairly recent installment in 2010.  Made up of 1782 pipes, it was constructed to fit the church's triangular form.

The boxy, painted wooden pews hold about 525 worshipers.

The triptych above the altar is a mosaic of Jesus' earthly ministry, made entirely of Norwegian stones.  Above the mural, fifteen windows shimmer with an artsy, stained glass depiction of Christ's crucifixion.

The pulpit, seen in the photo below, was a simple painted wooden one.

The painted, carved wooden panels on the organ gallery depict the history of the Hammerfest churches through the years.  Interspersed are carvings of some of the greats of Christian history, Laestadius among them.

The furthest right panel shows the Hauen Kappel, which still sits across the street from the modern church.  Built in 1937, it was the only building left standing when the town of Hammerfest was burned during WWII.  Though much smaller, with a capacity of only 120, it served the congregation while the larger church was being rebuilt.  

The chapel wasn't open, so any information I have has been gleaned online.  It seems that the building, and its attached cemetery, are still in use today for weddings, funerals and possibly confirmation.