Traveling on the MS Polarlys

April 26 ~ May 3, 2019

The Hurtigruten MS Polarlys at rest

Other than some overnight cruises between Helsinki and Stockholm, and to and from the Shetland Islands, I've never been on a cruise.  The Hurtigruten line was chosen for two reasons.  First, I'm not big on entertainment, and Hurtigruten ships provide none.  Second, I wanted to travel at least north as far as Honningsvag, the birthplace of my paternal grandfather.  Hurtigruten was the only line that travels that far. 

The cruise that Hurtigruten runs up the Norway coast has its origins 150 years ago, as it began as a mail boat and passenger ferry.  Much of that has stayed the same, though the line also does actual cruises all over the world.  Today the ships that ply the coast still deliver people and goods to small towns and islands all along the shoreline.  However, as the trip is also taken by tourists from all over the world, they much more to offer in the way of accommodations, dining and shore excursions.

  

A brief stop at one of the tiny towns along the way

A pallet of riding mowers being loaded into the cargo hold

And then a load of windows or mirrors

When all cargo work is completed, the ramp is folded up until the next stop

I reserved a room known as Polar Outside.  My room had an actual window, rather than just the porthole provided in many.  It had two narrow beds, one which I kept folded up as a couch.  There was also a nice closet, vanity counter and bathroom with shower.  Not deluxe, but just enough.  Somehow I took no photos inside the room, but I spent quite a bit of time looking out my starboard side window.

 As cruise ships go, the Polarlys is relatively small, carrying only around 500 passengers.  But besides my room, there were still plenty of places to spend time while on board.  

The cozy room seen below was the entry room, a place to gather when embarking and disembarking.  Of course it was usually packed with people when I came through.

This room was where the time for departure was always clearly and largely noted so that no one would miss the boat.  

The Multe Bakery Café was a cozy, casual area to gather, with lots of windows to look out.  They served coffees, ice cream, cookies and pastries.  In addition, there was an area with games and a big basket of yarn with crochet hooks and knitting needles.  A colorful granny square afghan was in progress.  One could just crochet a square and leave it there to be added. 

Torget, the main dining room served up three delicious meals a day.  Breakfast was a sumptuous buffet and open seating.  In addition to lots of smoked fish, cold meats and cheeses, there was yogurt, fruit, and loads of bread.  It was always so busy that I never got a chance to take a picture.  Lunch and dinner were at two different seatings each, and at assigned tables.  Lunch was sometimes served, and other times buffet.  Dinner was several courses, always served, and beautifully plated.  

Portions were small, but enough.  Having them smaller was helpful if I found it was something I didn't care for.  

Hurtigruten strives to use local ingredients, purchased from farms along the way.  Below is a whole meal from beginning to end. I don't recall everything, but the meat was reindeer.  

There was a menu on the table that told a story about every dish, its components as well as origin.  This particular meal was vegetarian, but I could have asked for another option.  The mushroom and oat cake wasn't very appealing looking, but not bad tasting. 

Most of the journey the weather was chilly but pleasant, so it was nice to get outside while on board.  There were no activities on deck as there are on some cruises, but lots of room to walk.  Deck five is open for walking all around, and of course for taking pictures.  

Another use for deck five was gathering on the stern with the Expedition Team to hear about interesting things along the way.  Occasionally there was a bit of folklore thrown in, but mostly it was about rock formations, a notable fjord, some unique industry along the shore, or, for example, when the ship crossed into the arctic circle.  Nothing was very formal, and often quite short, so if you weren't paying attention you'd miss out. 

The uniquely shaped rock jutting up from the sea is known as Finnkirka, a cathedral shaped sea cliff.

The scenery was ever-changing.  Mostly we stayed near the coast though, so there was always something to look at.  Every once in a while we were in a setting where we could see a reflection of the ship.  In the first photo we were docked in a town with a passenger terminal.  The second photo was taken as we were cruising by a hotel with lots of windows.

More of the beautiful scenery along the way.  I had my Canon camera and a long lens, so it was fun to capture images both near and far.  Bridges have been built from the mainland to the many islands dotting the coastline, so we passed under many in our journey. 

The further north we went, the craggier the mountains seemed, and there was more snow on the ground.   

A few time when we docked there was enough time to get out and walk a bit.  

I was attempting to walk to the church in the photo below, but when I got close enough, it wasn't really accessible.  So I walked back, stopping at a small pharmacy for some hand cream.  Throughout the town, trolls were everywhere.  Two carved wooden ones flanked the doors of the shop.

In Hammerfest I got off and spent quite a bit of time strolling through the town.  I believe that they have a good polar museum, but I hadn't researched it, and probably wouldn't have had time anyway. 

As we were leaving I noticed this beautiful church on the waterfront.  It would have been nice to visit if there had been time.  

Though only early May, it is close enough to summer that the further north we went, the lighter the sky was during the night.  This last photo was taken sometime after midnight out of the window of my cabin.  

Honningsvag, The North Cape and the Sami

Wednesday, May 1, 2019

I leaned forward over the bow railing on deck number five, straining for a first glimse of Honningsvag, on the island of Mageroya, home of my paternal grandfather up to the age of six.  I knew that much would have changed since he moved with his family in about 1906 to the United States, but still, I was aching to see it.

First glimpse of Honningsvag

It was snowing heavily by the time I walked down the gangplank and to a waiting tour bus.  

Honningsvag Harbor and colorful homes

The main focus on this excursion was The North Cape, most northern place in Europe.  The roads were narrow, and as we gained elevation, they were covered with snow.  Once again I was glad to not be in the driver's seat.

Main road through Honningsvag

This time our guide was narrating in English and French.  There was another bus that had a German translator.  Our young guide told us later that she's from Slovania and just doing this as a one-month job.  I'm guessing to improve her language skills.  But the funny thing is, I don't think that there were any French speaking people on the bus.  Some of the Hurtigruten's literature is printed in French but none of the announcements are.

As we went along she talked about fishing and fish.  She pointed out the racks beside the road with hundreds of cod hanging out to dry.

Cod drying racks

The 45 minute drive was long and winding, and got snowier the higher we went.  We drove past many lakes and fjords, some frozen and some showing steel blue as they reflected the cold gray skies.

You can see the route we took.  Honningsvag is kind of in the lower right.  North Cape at the top.

It's hard to imaging anyone living up here.

Note the buildings on the lower left.  That is a Scandic hotel and cabins.

It almost looked like a lunar scape

About 4,000 domestic reindeer spend April - August on Mageroya Island each year.  They are owned by 4 different Sami (indigenous people of northern Scandinavia).  They recently arrived by ferry from the mainland.  We saw many herds of them scattered in the snow but it was hard to get a picture. It was explained to us that in the winter the buck lose their antlers and the females lose theirs in the summer.

Reindeer on the ridge in center of photo

Close up of reindeer

One of the many fjords on the island

When we finally reached the top, it was snowing quite heavily.  There was a nice visitors center with restaurant, gift shop and an interesting movie about the midnight sun and polar night.  I have connected a bit with two girls from the US, so we headed straight out to the iconic North Cape globe to take each other's pictures.

We had to be seriously bundled up to go out there.

To the left of the globe was this incredible chasm.  With the snow it seemed to be bottomless.

On our way back to Honningsvag, we stopped at a little tourist area set up by a Sami family.  The mother has a little souvenir shop on the side of the road.  They also have some traditional Sami huts to look at.  The son had a reindeer out front eating moss.  Note the paint markings on the reindeer.  Since the reindeer run freely all summer, they use spray paint to mark them (rather than branding or ear clips).  They are raise for meat.

Young Sami man with his traditional costume and colorful reindeer.

Pile of reindeer antlers by shop door.

Traditional lavoo - a nomadic Sami's home.

Sleds were used to haul goods when the Sami were herding their reindeer.

Lavoo with a cover.

Much like a native American teepee, with a fire in the middle

Much like Native Americans, the Sami found their way of life threatened when European settlers began moving up into their territory.  They were accustomed to letting the reindeer graze anywhere they wanted, ignoring country boundaries, etc.  Unlike Native Americans, they did not get put into reservations.  They fought for their rights, even formed a recognized parliament.  Some keep their old way of life but most have regular jobs.

On the way back down, we saw a few other Sami buildings.  The dugout would have been used for supplies.

We arrived back at the ship just as they were blowing the deafening warning signal.  As we boarded, they told us to go up to the coffee shop on the seventh floor for some freshly baked apple cake and hot chocolate.

Very out of focus picture but it was a special moment that I want to remember.