The Charming Town of Melk, Austria

 November 13, 2024

My mother would have turned ninety-two today, but she rests in peace in that land far away.  

Along with most of my fellow travelers, I walked down the gangplank late morning for our included tour to the Melk Abbey.  I would say free tour, but nothing is actually free on a cruise!  A short bus ride took us to the parking lot of this sprawling, tawny-yellow edifice.  From there we climbed a short hill to a vantage point, which had an overlook of the city, and limited views of the abbey itself.

The abbey hangs out on a rocky cliff, with the Danube River flowing placidly by.  Given to the Benedictine Order in the year 1089 by Leopold Margrave of Austria, it is in use today as a place of instruction for both men and women committing their lives to God within the Catholic faith.

Fire and war have had their way with the buildings that make up the abbey complex, with some incidents almost completely destroying it.  The current building has been standing since 1702, though it has required extensive restoration as well. 

We began our tour outside of the main entrance, which led to the courtyard.  Beyond that point we were not allowed to take any pictures.  

These pictures of the exterior hint at the opulence inside the building.  Taken from various vantage points, it's difficult to identify the locations after the fact.  Our tour moved quickly and there was no time for note-taking. 

Two pictures taken within the entry area hint at the grandeur that I wasn't able to photograph.  It is said that when the buildings were refurbished in the late 1970s to mid 1990s, 8 pounds of gold bullion were used to restore the statues and altars in the nave.

I have no idea who the subject of these portraits are, but they are dressed fancy.  Possibly Leopold II and his wife.

From a back portico, before we began our indoor tour, we were able to see a nice view of the town of Melk and the Danube.

Departing the abbey after our tour, we had the option of returning to the bus for a ride back to the ship, or exploring the town.  My travel agent had recommended the latter, so I exited down this long flight of stairs to the road leading into town.

Melk is a charming town with meandering streets.  Located in the fertile Wachau Valley, it is renown for its apricots.  Near every shop and cafe had signs and sandwich boards boasting the golden fruit in its many forms, from jams to liqueurs, and fancy gifts of the dried fruit.  

I found a quaint shop tastefully filled, not with fruit, but with lovely decor and Christmassy things.  I bought a hand painted wall plaque of some little carolers, and some packages of pretty Christmas napkins.  Both lightweight and easy to pack items.  

Too soon it was time to find my way back to the ship.  We had a noon departure, and our lunch was waiting.  Somehow though, despite my best efforts and even using gps on my phone, I managed to get myself turned around.  Writing this month later, I can still remember the slightly panicky feeling as the clock kept ticking, and I didn't find the correct route.  At last it made sense and I was headed in the right direction.  The cruise ships were not, of course, docked at the edge of town, so I had to find the trail that would lead to a bridge that we'd been told to look for, then through a wooded area, and to the ship.  Once I was confident of where I was going, I walked as fast as I could.  I didn't really think the ship would leave without me (though they frequently threatened to), but it was satisfying to pass fellow passengers and know I wouldn't be the last one to board. 

A quirky sculpture on the way, and a glimpse of the cliffside abbey

As I crossed the foot bridge over the side channel of the Danube River, I looked back and saw a splendid view of the Melk Abbey reflected in the greenish waters of the channel.  Now that I knew I was near the ship, I was comfortable taking a few photos.

Cruising with the Emerald Sun

 November 2024

To embellish a bit on a previous blog about river cruising, I'd like to put up some details about life aboard the ship. Or boat, or barge.  Or whatever you want to call it.  

While each day was unique, they also developed a bit of a rhythm.  As soon as I woke, I got coffee from the lounge, and sat for an hour in my room, while watching the scenery go by, as I blogged, or checked in with family back home.  

The scenery varied, depending on whether we were on a river or canal, going through a town, a gorge, or in the pastoral countryside. A few facets were consistent though.  We were never far from shore, and the water was always calm.  So a river cruise would be perfect for someone who is troubled with motion sickness or is bothered by being out on the sea with no land in sight. 

My room was a great place to hang out when there was nothing going on.  Though I didn't need two beds, I got a sweet deal on this room so it was cheaper than the cut-rate single.  Every night I swiped the duvet from the other bed so I'd have two.  I could have turned up the heat, but preferred this.  

The chairs by the window weren't exactly plush, but they worked, doubling as a spot to hang wet laundry.  There was no outside deck or access to the outdoors from my room, but at the touch of a button, the wide window smoothly slid down to the horizontal bar.  It was a bit chilly to leave open, but nice for a little fresh air.  Twice daily my housekeeper came in to tidy up and refill the drinking water carafe. Dedicated to being "green", there were no plastic bottles or single use disposables aboard the ship. A glass carafe on the counter with drinking glasses, was accompanied by two insulated bottles for excursions off the ship.

Towards the end of the cruise she began to add personal touches like towels twisted into a swan or elephant.

I usually sat alone at breakfast, which was a good, solid buffet, with plenty of selections for both indulgent and thoughtful eating.  I fell into the routine of a small, handcrafted veggie omelet at the egg station, with a side of bacon, and a few roasted tomatoes.  As there was also an "early-bird" breakfast served in the lounge, less people were in the dining room in the mornings than at other meals.

Then it was usually back to my room for my day bag and jacket, before mustering in the packed lobby for the day's outing.  

Lunch was also open seating, but more people attended, so I often sat with someone I knew.  Again a buffet, but with a small menu on the table with the sandwich of the day and another entree or two.  The buffet also had a special daily pasta, and many sandwich fixings, salads, soup and lots more.  A special ice cream and gelato bar was a challenging temptation following each lunch.  

With a morning and afternoon outing on many days, I usually tried to fit in a quick swim before dinner.  I always refer to the pool as the ship's best kept secret.  I so rarely shared it with anyone, and only occasionally found wet footprints on the floor.  Below, at the beginning of our trip we make our way down a canal bracketed by iconic Dutch Elm.

Each evening, a half hour before dinner, we gathered in the lounge for our cruise talk.  Director Andras would give a synopsis of the day's activities, a history lesson, and some instructions for the following day's offerings.  

Dinnertime was a different affair than the other meals.  While the dress code was decidedly casual, I usually put on dress pants and a sweater.  Rarely did anyone don fancy attire, but occasionally a woman wore a dress.  Not a sport coat or tie in sight that I can recall. 

While this last meal of the day it was still open seating, every chair was usually occupied, since there was a single seating. There were very few singles on the cruise, though a few singles traveling with friends, like Julie and Robin.  Irma and Derrick, a couple around my age from Toronto, were always welcoming to me.  They usually sat at a big round table with other people I got to know, like Peter and Jane, and a trio of older women who had been dubbed "the golden girls".

No buffet for dinner, but a very nice three course meal ordered by menu.  There were usually three options for each starter, main course and dessert.  Portions were petite, but beautifully plated, and along with a different specialty bread each day, they were more than adequate.  

During the meal the waiters were very busy keeping the water glasses filled and the wine flowing.  With dessert they also brought around coffee.  Decaf was available, but it often took a little longer to get.

By the end of dinner I was usually ready to escape to the privacy of my room and a good night's sleep.  Even more so, as we continued our trip east and across time zones.  

For those who enjoy staying up, there was always plenty to do.  Many gathered up in the lounge to chat or enjoy a post-dinner entertainment like a trivia game, or I think there was even karaoke on occasion.  In addition, there was a clever floor that scrolled over the swimming pool so that room was use as a movie theater in the evenings, complete with popcorn.  

I'm sure I missed out on all sorts of fun times, but my many hours of restful sleep more than made up for it.  

Exploring Altstadt Salzburg

 Tuesday, November 12, 2024

I was not long wandering the streets of the old part of Salzburg before I knew that this was one city I'd like to return to.  From cathedrals to clock towers, so much about it was enchanting. 

A few old streets make up the pedestrian only area of the city.  Getreidegasse, Goldgasse, Judengasse, and several others.  One intriguing feature are the Through-houses.  That is, houses that have an entrance on each street.  This creates a passageway, full of nooks, crannies and little shops.  Each bearing a house number on both sides.  Since I have a habit of getting lost, I took a photo of the one I went through, so I could remember later how to exit.

Julie, Robin and I spent some time together for a while, heading first to St Peter's Cemetery and the cliffside catacombs, where we hoped to find the ghosts of the Von Trapp family in the shadows of a giant tombstone.  

A bit of information in English encouraged us to explore the peaceful grounds, but we didn't find anything very conclusive.  Later I heard that the graveyard scene where the family hides from the Nazis was actually filmed in Hollywood.  I'm crushed if that's true.

We took this opportunity while we were together, to snap a few pictures of each other.  The Hohensalzburg Fortress dominated the cliffs beyond.

The inscriptions on the stones were all, of course, in German.  Still, they were so elaborate and old that we spend some time studying them.

Here we parted ways.  Julie and Robin to find some lunch, and I to find a "hidden gem" we'd been told about earlier by our city guide.  Said to be the oldest restaurant in Europe, Stiftskulinarium, or Saint Peter's Restaurant, tucked away behind the cemetery. 

From a travel blog I gleaned that the restaurant may have been operating before this date, but in the year 803, which is prominently posted above the arched entranceway, it was written about by Alcuin of York, an attendant of the Emperor of Charlemagne.

A menu was posted outside.  For the amount of time I would be allotting for lunch the prices seemed too dear, so I didn't even inquire if I could get in without a reservation.  

The restaurant has expanded to include multiple rooms, each with their own unique flavor.  Some have been carved out of the cliff.  I peeked through this door, but felt taking a photo was a bit intrusive.  Some day I'll eat here.

It was well past lunch by now, so I made my way back to the market square.  There was the beginnings of a Christmas market being set up, but no food on the offering.  I found a nearby bakery and selected what looked to be a promising pretzel sandwich. The solo worker there plunked it unceremoniously into a small paper sack.  When got out the door, it registered that the sandwich was cold.  I went back in, and using gestures, conveyed that I'd like it heated somehow.  He took it behind the counter and returned with it on a fancy paper plate, slightly warmed.  Once outside I found a cheery spot to enjoy it.

Tummy full and feet rested, I resumed my browsing of this unique old city.  History abounds.  The birthplace of Mozart, now a museum, will wait for another time.  

Some of the narrow pedestrian streets were already decorated for Christmas and the long dark months ahead.  Others were only ornamented with their elaborate metal signs.

Interesting shops filled every available space on the streets and in the alleys created by the "through-houses".  It was in one of these shops that, under the very watchful eye of the proprietor, I found what I think is my most favorite, and most fragile souvenir. A hand painted glass ornament of the Stille Nacht chapel, which is located in the town of Oberndorf, Austria. 

Gingerbread shop

Mozartkugel shop

There is so much of this city left to explore.  It will keep for another day.  If I live long enough, I do hope to return.  If for no other reason than to see the view from the Hohensalzburg Fortress.

Tiny shop, squeezed on either side by two giants

Hohensalzburg Fortress