Salzburg

 Tuesday, November 12, 2024

Morning found our ship tied up in Passau, Germany.  Breakfast was served early, as by 8:00 many of us would board a cushy bus for the long ride, across the Germany-Austria border, to Salzburg.  As I disembarked the ship, I noted that we were in second position.  That is, we weren't tied to the dock, but rather to another cruise ship that was tied to the dock.  Tied very closely, as you can see in the picture. 

In this situation we would simply walk off our ship, through their ship, and onto their gangplank.  Once we were in third position, so walked through two ships before setting our feet on land. It was hard not to snoop a bit at their travel commodities and accommodations as we passed through.   

The day was rather gray.  Though there were many empty seats on the bus, a fellow traveler opted to sit with me, rather than her family, limiting my picture-taking. 

After a several hour ride, our first stop in Salzburg was at the Mirabell Palace and Gardens.  We didn't tour the palace, which is now public buildings, but wandered about the gardens.  The "Do-Re-Mi" scene from The Sound of Music was filmed in this garden.  Maria and the children danced and frolicked around a fountain as they sang.

The subdued daylight did little for the gardens.  But in truth, they aren't lush.  They would probably look striking from the air, with their curlicued beds of low growing color.  But no exotic blooms were to be found, or even a single rose bush.  

Schloss Mirabell, a solid, boxy edifice, was ordered built in 1606 by Prince-Archbishop Dietrich von Raitenau, for his mistress, Salome Alt and their massive brood of fifteen children.  It has been redesigned through the ensuing years.  Now housing offices for city officials, it's also a popular wedding venue.

Back on the bus we trundled through the narrow streets.  Here, at Makartplatz 8, we find the family residence of Mozart. 

Our bus tour ended, we disembarked for a few hours of free time.  Our exploration of this ancient city would begin along the Salzach River, which runs through the city, dividing it between the Altstadt (old city) and Neustadt (new city).  We stood on the banks of the Neustadt side, looking westward across the river to the old, with the Hohensalzburg Fortress sprawled across the skyline.

Good tour guides always attempt to cement in our minds where we will meet the ship or bus at the end of our free time.  Here we stood, not only on the banks of a sizeable river, but near a unique bridge.  Liberally festooned with "love locks", it was our passage to all the wonders the old city held.

Remembrance Day and Regensburg

 November 11, 2024

Few people were astir on the ship as I made my stealthy trip to the lounge in my pajamas.  With my tiny, red insulated cup in hand (a souvenir from my first Norway cruise with Hurtigruten) I made my way to the magical coffee machine.  There, a staff member had just filled the tank with fresh milk for morning lattes and mochas.  I was just looking for straight-up black.  Two shots, into a latte glass, then carefully transferred into my little cup.  Then, back down the stairs, past the sleepy front desk clerk, down the shadowed hall, and into my cabin.  There, I sat by the window and watched the scenery slip by as the morning skies lightened.  A graceful swan was a bright spot against the backdrop of evergreens.

After a late breakfast, I joined others in the lounge for a brief Remembrance Day (Veteran's Day) program.  Taps was played, followed by Andras, our cruise director, reading "In Flanders Field".  Then we held a moment of silence for all those who have served our various countries in the world's wars. 

A delicious Bavarian lunch was awaiting us in the dining room right after the program.  A bit of this and that.  Creamy spätzle, roast pork, schnitzel and more.

In the early afternoon I boarded a bus for the Bavarian city of Regensburg. Our city guide for the dozen or so of us who ended up in her group, nearly spoiled the day, as she treated us like kindergarteners out for an excursion beyond the confines of the playground.  At one point she even told us that we were the worst behaved group she'd ever led.  I put up with it for a while, then split off on my own.  

Despite all of that, the old town Regensburg is well worth exploring, with its beautifully restored buildings, and numerous clock towers.  We entered the city through the partially restored city wall, the Porta Praetoria.  Here we paused briefly, and while I wasn't able get much information, I believe this this is one of only two remaining Roman gates, built around the year 179 AD.

This mural of David and Goliath was pointed out to us as a landmark in case we became disoriented during our free time rambles.  Along with the spires of the Regensburg Cathedral, it would ensure we were never completely lost.  Painted during a time when many of the townsfolk couldn't read, pictures and murals were not only a way to tell a story, they were important landmarks.  This mural, painted on what was called "The Goliath House" was created by Melchior Bocksberger in 1573.

On Goliath Street

St Peter Cathedral, Regensburg

A small plaque, on the side of a rather ordinary looking building, notes that one of the apartments was home to Oskar Schindler and his wife, Emilie in 1945 and 1946..

In the twelfth century, most bridges were made of wood, with the expectation that they wouldn't last many years, or even many seasons.  But the bridge in Regansburg that stretches across the Danube, is entirely made of stone.  Constructed between 1135 and 1146, it gives the appearance of a skipping stone, arching repeatedly over the expanse of water.  Due to its low clearance for ships, the main river traffic travels through another channel.  The bridge is now pedestrian only.

Brightly plumed mallards congregated near the churning waters.

In the late afternoon I took a break from my rambles and popped into a little creperie.  The owner was a sweet old guy that didn't understand my English. He did, however, know how to make a beautiful crepe, and lovely latte.  

When I left there, dusk had already fallen on this late fall day.  Warm light spilled from shop windows.

I headed back in what seemed like the right direction, but soon found myself in this alley.  At first glance I thought I'd need to turn around.  Then I spotted the little door.

And like Alice falling into Wonderland, I found myself surrounded by a hushed and darkened beauty.  The door had been left ajar, but there seemed to be no one in the building.  

Feeling like an interloper, I quietly took a few pictures as I took in the intricate details of this baroque-style edifice. 

From wood worn by the ages, to the fresco paintings on the domed ceiling, the beauty was only amplified by the shadows and stone-shrouded silence.  I've toured many churches and cathedrals, but never stood alone in one.  I was filled with a sense of reverence and awe.

Reaching a set of double doors, I exited out into a relatively bright day.  I turned around to see from the front, the building that I had just toured.  

I later identified it as the Basilica of the Nativity of Our Lady.  The oldest Catholic church in Bavaria, it is said to have been founded in 1002.  

Basilica of the Nativity of Our Lady Regensburg, Germany

Once out the front door, I was able to reorient myself and get back to the cathedral.  Opened in 1520, this Gothic style cathedral has been open for more than 750 years.  Not surprisingly, it has scaffolding on it.  These ancient buildings do require upkeep to endure the weathering of centuries.

St Peters Cathedral Regensburg, Germany

Back near the bridge is a charming sausage shop that has been called the oldest continuously running restaurant in the world.  Originally the construction office for the bridge project, in 1135, when the bridge work was completed, it became a restaurant.  As this area was then a busy port, the eatery was named, "Garkueche auf dem Kranchen", meaning, "the cookshop near the crane".  Around the turn of the seventeenth century that building was replaced with the current one,  I didn't eat there, as I had dinner waiting on the ship, but it was the coziest looking, and smelled delicious.

Our evening back on the ship ended with a Bavarian treat.  An Oompa-pa band.  Dressed in traditional lederhosen, they played many toe tapping songs, ending with Edelweiss.