Traveling on the MS Polarlys

April 26 ~ May 3, 2019

The Hurtigruten MS Polarlys at rest

Other than some overnight cruises between Helsinki and Stockholm, and to and from the Shetland Islands, I've never been on a cruise.  The Hurtigruten line was chosen for two reasons.  First, I'm not big on entertainment, and Hurtigruten ships provide none.  Second, I wanted to travel at least north as far as Honningsvag, the birthplace of my paternal grandfather.  Hurtigruten was the only line that travels that far. 

The cruise that Hurtigruten runs up the Norway coast has its origins 150 years ago, as it began as a mail boat and passenger ferry.  Much of that has stayed the same, though the line also does actual cruises all over the world.  Today the ships that ply the coast still deliver people and goods to small towns and islands all along the shoreline.  However, as the trip is also taken by tourists from all over the world, they much more to offer in the way of accommodations, dining and shore excursions.

  

A brief stop at one of the tiny towns along the way

A pallet of riding mowers being loaded into the cargo hold

And then a load of windows or mirrors

When all cargo work is completed, the ramp is folded up until the next stop

I reserved a room known as Polar Outside.  My room had an actual window, rather than just the porthole provided in many.  It had two narrow beds, one which I kept folded up as a couch.  There was also a nice closet, vanity counter and bathroom with shower.  Not deluxe, but just enough.  Somehow I took no photos inside the room, but I spent quite a bit of time looking out my starboard side window.

 As cruise ships go, the Polarlys is relatively small, carrying only around 500 passengers.  But besides my room, there were still plenty of places to spend time while on board.  

The cozy room seen below was the entry room, a place to gather when embarking and disembarking.  Of course it was usually packed with people when I came through.

This room was where the time for departure was always clearly and largely noted so that no one would miss the boat.  

The Multe Bakery Café was a cozy, casual area to gather, with lots of windows to look out.  They served coffees, ice cream, cookies and pastries.  In addition, there was an area with games and a big basket of yarn with crochet hooks and knitting needles.  A colorful granny square afghan was in progress.  One could just crochet a square and leave it there to be added. 

Torget, the main dining room served up three delicious meals a day.  Breakfast was a sumptuous buffet and open seating.  In addition to lots of smoked fish, cold meats and cheeses, there was yogurt, fruit, and loads of bread.  It was always so busy that I never got a chance to take a picture.  Lunch and dinner were at two different seatings each, and at assigned tables.  Lunch was sometimes served, and other times buffet.  Dinner was several courses, always served, and beautifully plated.  

Portions were small, but enough.  Having them smaller was helpful if I found it was something I didn't care for.  

Hurtigruten strives to use local ingredients, purchased from farms along the way.  Below is a whole meal from beginning to end. I don't recall everything, but the meat was reindeer.  

There was a menu on the table that told a story about every dish, its components as well as origin.  This particular meal was vegetarian, but I could have asked for another option.  The mushroom and oat cake wasn't very appealing looking, but not bad tasting. 

Most of the journey the weather was chilly but pleasant, so it was nice to get outside while on board.  There were no activities on deck as there are on some cruises, but lots of room to walk.  Deck five is open for walking all around, and of course for taking pictures.  

Another use for deck five was gathering on the stern with the Expedition Team to hear about interesting things along the way.  Occasionally there was a bit of folklore thrown in, but mostly it was about rock formations, a notable fjord, some unique industry along the shore, or, for example, when the ship crossed into the arctic circle.  Nothing was very formal, and often quite short, so if you weren't paying attention you'd miss out. 

The uniquely shaped rock jutting up from the sea is known as Finnkirka, a cathedral shaped sea cliff.

The scenery was ever-changing.  Mostly we stayed near the coast though, so there was always something to look at.  Every once in a while we were in a setting where we could see a reflection of the ship.  In the first photo we were docked in a town with a passenger terminal.  The second photo was taken as we were cruising by a hotel with lots of windows.

More of the beautiful scenery along the way.  I had my Canon camera and a long lens, so it was fun to capture images both near and far.  Bridges have been built from the mainland to the many islands dotting the coastline, so we passed under many in our journey. 

The further north we went, the craggier the mountains seemed, and there was more snow on the ground.   

A few time when we docked there was enough time to get out and walk a bit.  

I was attempting to walk to the church in the photo below, but when I got close enough, it wasn't really accessible.  So I walked back, stopping at a small pharmacy for some hand cream.  Throughout the town, trolls were everywhere.  Two carved wooden ones flanked the doors of the shop.

In Hammerfest I got off and spent quite a bit of time strolling through the town.  I believe that they have a good polar museum, but I hadn't researched it, and probably wouldn't have had time anyway. 

As we were leaving I noticed this beautiful church on the waterfront.  It would have been nice to visit if there had been time.  

Though only early May, it is close enough to summer that the further north we went, the lighter the sky was during the night.  This last photo was taken sometime after midnight out of the window of my cabin.