Mariakirken ~ St. Mary's Church, Bergen

November 4 - 5, 2022

Built between 1130 and 1170, St Mary's is the oldest surviving building in Bergen.  As it was only a block or so from my hotel, I walked over in the rain for a visit.  I took many rather dark pictures of the exterior, but when I attempted to go in, I found the doors locked.  

Random statue near the church

St Mary's Church, Bergen

Beautiful wooden doors of St Mary's Church

One of the many tombstones scattered around the churchyard

St Mary's Church, Bergen

On Saturday the weather was better, so I walked over to see if I could get in the church.  On my way I saw this woman who took feeding the pigeons to an epic level.  She even pulled her hood up to protect her hair.

The church looked even nicer with the brighter sky.  I felt encouraged by the few people scattered outside, that it would be open to visit. As I approached, I could see that the doors stood open in welcome.

As I stepped inside, however, I saw that there were people seated, as if for a service.  Then on the small table at the end of the aisle I saw a flyer with the picture of an infant on the front.  I had unintentionally walked into a baptism service.  As I turned to go, a nicely dressed woman walked through the door.  I took a chance that she'd understand my English speaking, and asked if it was okay that I was there.  She seemed a bit puzzled by my question, almost like I could just join the service.  I stayed quietly in the back and took pictures, leaving before it started.  As I exited, two families came in, each holding an infant, and all dressed in traditional clothing.  I really wanted to take a picture, but it seemed somehow disrespectful so I didn't ask.

According to the church's website, though the building was ravaged by fire in 1198 and in 1248, it has been in continuous use since early medieval days.  The interior was incredible, with painted stone arches in the ceiling.  

The church's website indicates that the very ornate pulpit is a bit of an enigma.  Its construction and materials aren't used elsewhere in Norway.  The tortoiseshell and lacquer work seem to suggest a connection with East Asia.  On the pulpit and staircase are panels depicting "eight of the nine original cardinal virtues, represented by women with various attributes.  Penitence with a pelican, Prudence with a snake, the naked Truth, Chastity with two turtle doves, Patience with a lamb, Hope with a dove, Faith with book and cross, and Charity with two children." 

The following pictures might be too zoomed to see the details.

The walls of the church were about four feet thick.  You can kind of see that around this window.

The the beautiful pipe organ is a recent addition.  I'm not sure what they had previous to it.

This simple wooden spiral stairs to the choir loft was a nice contrast to the remainder of the ornate interior.

A couple of ships were hanging in the back.  It wasn't clear where they were from or that they represented.  In the photo below, you can again see the thickness of the church walls.

Most of the walls seemed to be covered with some sort of ornamentation.  This was on the back wall.  

There were oil paintings in all sizes.  I'm not sure what this one is supposed to be, but the figure on the horse seems to represent death.  There was a really disturbing one of John the Baptist's head on a platter.  It graphicly depicted the whole process.  That's when I left the church for some fresh air.