Fairytale Castles of the Rhine River

 Wenesday, November 6, 2024

With an invitation to come up to the sundeck at 8:30 in the morning to see castles, I slept poorly, for fear of missing it all.  Bundled against the cold, I stood in the chilly morning, under steely-gray skies, while Andras introduced each castle and it's known history.  

In Cologne I had purchased a small book about the castles along this stretch that may help me to identify some.  The angle of the picture can make such a difference in seeing the number of towers, and so on.  I'm sure I'll get some wrong, but it probably won't matter to me or anyone else if I do.

Reinstein Castle sits nearly 300 feet above the Rhine River on a rocky cliff.  In 1282 Rudolf von Habsburg sat here in judgement against the insubordinate knights of the Rhine.  Today the castle has been restored to its former glory and is owned by a former opera singer.  It has a small restaurant open to the public, and much more to admire.

Pfalzfrafenstein Castle was constructed on a rocky promontory in the Rhine in the early 1300s.  Looking like a stalwart stone ship, its original purpose was to force tolls on those passing.  Due to the swift current of the river at this point, the castle was impregnable, and was never taken.

Above it on the hill, Gutenfels Castle, flanked by colorful autumnal vineyards.  Built around the year 1200, it's name means "Good Rock".  It earned this name when, for 39 days in 1504, during the Bavarian-Palatine war of succession, it was besieged unsuccessfully. It now houses a hotel.  At the bottom right in the photo you can see the boat ramp.  It looks like a fun place to stay, but it would be a long way to carry your bags.

While it's unclear when the Stahleck Castle, in the Bacharach region was built, the first known feudal lord, Goswin von Stahleck, was mentioned in 1134, providing the castle with its name.  The rest of its history is a convoluted tale of who married who.  "...In 1194 Konrad's daughter and heir Agnes secretly married Heinrich the Welf (son of Heinrich the Lion)..." The castle, with its conical keep, is now one of Germany's most beautiful youth hostels.  (quote from "Castles and Palaces on the Rhine")

The ruins of Furstenberg Castle appear lonely on the hill above a patchwork of lush vineyards.  It was built in 1219 by the archbishop of Cologne to protect his property around the Bacharach area.  In 1620, the castle was besieged and taken by the Spanish, and then again by the Swedish just 12 years later.  During the Palatine war of succession in the years 1688-1690, it was destroyed by the French.  Sadly, it  has been decaying every since.  

The Sooneck Castle sits at the outermost tip of the Soon Forest. It was originally built in the eleventh century.  Silhouetted against the gray sky, it could be seen a long way off. 

The cloak of fog that enshrouded the mountain only added to the mystique.

The buildings of the compound sprawl across the hillside above the ever-present vineyards.  This is rich wine country.  By the year 1825 it had been destroyed several times and was purchased by the crown prince, and later by King Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia, who had it rebuilt as a hunting lodge.

Neukatzenelnbogen Castle, or for short, Katz Castle is perched on a rocky promontory above the Rhine.  Suffering various besiegements through the years, it has been partially restored, and is now owned by a Japanese businessman. 

Ehrenfels Castle is a picturesque ruin that towers over the surrounding vineyards near Rudesheim.  

On this short stretch of the Rhine River, castles were plentiful.  Between them were other points of interest.  Andras may have named them as we floated by, but I took no notes.  Below, a stalwart tower stands on the shoreside of a village.

Leibfrauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, stands out with its deep red bricks.

The Loreley Rock, with its sharp slate blades running down into the river, has been associated through legends, to a beautiful woman who lures ships to their death.  As we passed it by, Andras played us several versions of a song written about it.

During WWII, the Germans built castle-like structures over their railroad tunnel entrances, in hopes that they would not be bombed.

There are a couple unique characteristics about this stretch of the Rhine.  First, the land was terraced hundreds of years ago for planting vineyards.  Over time, like the face of an old woman, the land has sagged, leaving it with wrinkles.  And second, there are no bridges allowed on this stretch, so there are many little local ferries plying the waters.

Churches of all sizes dot the landscape, but are often hidden among the other buildings in a village.

This stretch of the river, with its concentration of castles is covered in less than 3 hours.  For our group, it was a very chilly time, but unforgettable.