Day 2 on Cruise ~ Cycling in Trondheim

Sunday, April 28, 2019

This morning I took my first official excursion from the cruise, a bicycle ride through the city of Trondheim.  Each of us eleven who signed up were given a bicycle from the garage just off the harbor.  Even though I was a bit early, the others were even earlier, so I was the last to get my bike.  There was no checking if it fit, telling me about the brakes, etc.  I was offered a helmet, which I took as I don't feel I have any excess brain cells to lose on the pavement.

Our guide (I never got her name) explained that we'd be riding on bike paths, roads and pedestrian walkways.  She gave her hand signals, which were completely different than ours in the US.  Everything she said she gave in both English and German (the cruise has about 250 people from Germany aboard).

I managed to get on my bike, but it felt huge.  My bike at home is called a "flat foot" bike, which obviously means that I can stand flat footed while on the seat.   We headed out into the chilly morning, a rather rag-tag line.  As we went along, people in front of me kept slowing abruptly, etc.  I soon discovered that I had no back hand brake, but rather the old "coaster style", that brakes when you back pedal.  The left hand brake was very touchy on the front though.  Considering that everything was covered with a layer of small loose gravel (from all the winter's ice), it seemed a sketchy combination.

It doesn't look that big but it was way too big for me.

We arrived at our first stop on a bike path overlooking the fjord.  I quickly discovered that my feet were no where near the pavement when I brought the bike to a halt with the others.  There was no way to catch myself and I ungracefully tumbled off to the side, landing on the pavement with the bike on top of me.  How lovely.  Some guy helped me up and everyone else pretended not to notice.  I wasn't hurt too bad, just scraped my knee up pretty good.

Behind us in the shadows was this Leiv Eiriksson statue.  Our guide explained the history but I also found this translation of what is written on the base.

"He Led the Way
Leiv Eiriksson is an important symbol of ethnic pride for Americans of Nordic heritage. According to the Saga of Olav Tryggvason, Leiv sailed out from Trondheim harbor for his historic voyage to Vinland, now known as North America, in the year 1000. This saga was written by Snorre Sturlasson in approximately 1230-1240. August Werner designed the original of this statue for the 1982 Seattle World's Fair. The Leif Erikson Society of Seattle gave this replica to the city of Trondheim in 1997 to honor the thousand-year anniversaries of the founding of Trondheim and Leiv Eiriksson's voyage to America."

Leiv Eirikkson

Our guide pointing out the route

I'd never be able to recount the route and it really isn't important.  We drove here and there through the city, stopping quite often.  And every time we stopped I tried to figure out a safe way to stop.  I moved the seat to as low as it could go and still couldn't touch my toes to the ground while sitting on the seat.  I figured out if I slowed to a stop and the second it was stopped, I hopped forward and got both feet to the ground at the same time, I wouldn't dump it. 

 

Another stop along the fjord

Once we got into the old part of the city, we stopped to take a break in front of this old house.  It was built in the mid 1800s and our guide knew the guy who owned it.  She mostly wanted to show us this "free fridge" the the guy had out front.  If people have something extra, they just put it in there and if someone needs something, they take it.  

Free Fridge (on left side of pic)

As she was talking, the owner came out to eat his breakfast on the sunny bench out front.  He maybe in his 30s and a bit of a hippy.  She asked if she could show us his back yard and he escorted us back.  Kind of a bonus on the tour, I guess.  It seems that this guy just really has a heart for kids.  His real job is working on historic restoration for the city buildings, but in his free time, he helps kids by welcoming them to work with him on fixing things.

The back yard is more of an enclosed courtyard.  Here's his outdoor kitchen

He'll work on anything, but skis, skateboards and bikes are his main thing.

Near the famous Nidaros Cathedral, we stopped by what is referred to by locals as "the Hallelujah Street", due to the number of churches lined up there.  There is a Catholic one, Salvation Army, Baptist and a mission church.  

Beyond our bicycles, churches lined up on "Hallelujah Street"

Trondheim is an ancient city founded by the Viking King Olav Tryggvason in the year 997.  The Nidaros Cathedral is built over the burial place of St. Olav, Norway's patron saint, beginning in 1070.  It is a huge, ornate building.  The light was behind it as we approached it from the front, making it difficult to get pictures.  

Normally you have to pay to go in the cathedral but today was Sunday and it was open to the public.  A boys choir was rehearsing up front.  I noticed that the sound was more mature than boys and asked our guide.  She said that it is open to males of any age.  Her son, who is 16 is in the choir as well as some men up to the age of 70.  They sing in 8 part harmony.  We were told to take no pictures and remove our hats/helmets.  But of course, there were cameras all over, openly taking video and pictures.  Many were wearing hats and bike helmets.  Though there were a few quietly sitting in the pews, many treated it more like a museum than a place of worship.

A very ornate back door

And of course there was an extensive cemetery, wrapping around all sides.  I briefly looked for my family name, Karlsen, but didn't see any.

Cemetery

Behind the cathedral is what used to be the residence of the archbishop of Norway.  Built, I believe, in the 1200s, he created a central heating system of sorts by having constructed these "wall chimneys" on the left side, going from the kitchens up to his bedroom.

A little further behind the cathedral, we rode toward the River Nid and followed it to the bridge to cross it.  

The River Nid

Once the old city bridge, now for bikes and pedestrians ~ "The Portal to Happiness"

In mid 1800s, a fire started from a cooking mishap on a boat.  It blew into the buildings along the river and burned much of the city.  These old warehouses have been built since then.  They are now restaurants, shops and homes.

Further down we stopped at a little cafe for coffee and a cinnamon bun.  It was quite warm outside in the full sun but indoors the seats were taken.  I sat with our guide and had a nice visit.

We slowly made our way back towards the harbor, stopping here and there.  I thought this private patio was quite charming.

One last glimpse of the colorful buildings and their reflections

Trondheim has made a lot of effort to become the best cycling city in Norway.  Here we crossed a bridge that with clearly marked lanes for bikes and pedestrians.  On the top rails of the bridge they had recently planted hundreds of pansies.